From Danum to the Kinabatangan River

 April 30

Today was largely a travel day, driving back to Lahad Datu (3 hours) and then 2 hours to the jetty for the boat transfer to our new lodge on the banks of the Kinabatangan River. Ironically the unpaved roads from Danum were significantly less bumpy that the “paved” roads after we left Lahad Datu.

We starting this morning’s bird walk  at 6:00 am (breakfast at 5:30) which included time on a set of hanging bridges up in the canopy, as well as another visit to the “blind”. We were rewarded with a new sunbird and terrific views of the Great Argus. Both of the trails we’d used yesterday showed evidence of elephants passing through overnight. 

On the drive back to Lahad Datu, about 70 km from the lodge, we saw evidence of elephants along the road. Then the shrubs along the side of the road started to wave energetically. Kevin saw a small gray trunk reach up to shake a branch, and then we got a good view of a bull (Pygmy) elephant through an opening in the roadside shrubs. All very exciting! We also saw a number of birds in the garden at our “leg stretch” break, including an endemic barbet.

The final leg of the journey was a 10-minute motor skiff ride to our new lodge. It consists of a set of cabins and a central building on the shores of the Kinabatangan River. 

Pictured: Pygmy Elephant, Brown Barbet (an endemic), male Great Argus (with his long tail feathers tucked away), Red-throated sunbird, Purple-naped Spiderhunter.

Mammals and rare birds in Danum

 April 29

Our first full day in Danum started at 5:30am for breakfast and finished at 9pm after dinner. The morning consisted of a 6+ km hike, some of it on steep terrain, in search of endemic bird species. We were lucky to see some spectacular birds today. Look up “Great Argus” to see the unbelievable tail feathers on the male. Watching one slip through the underbrush was amazing but not photograph-able. On the other hand, a female Helmeted Hornbill was quite cooperative. Her head, throat and two-tiered tail are quite distinctive. 

We were also very lucky with mammals today. We saw a  giant squirrel (body and tail each a foot long), a “normal size” Prevost’s squirrel, and a Pygmy squirrel (body length 2” and tail length 3”). The Pygmy squirrel looked like a little lizard crawling along a branch high in the canopy. 

As we walked back along the access road, a young female orangutan appeared! She climbed up vines on a roadside tree quite close to us and then moved across a branch to enter trees on the other side of the road. It was wonderful to see an orangutan truly “in the wild”. Our local park guide told us this young female has been named “Lexie” by the research staff and is 8-9 years old.

And then, as we were discussing our luck, two Colugos glided over our heads and one landed on a roadside tree. These nocturnal creatures are closely related to primates (and are sometime called “flying lemurs”) but are in a genus of their own that also shares connections to rodents. In flight they looked like a square umbrella. On the tree they resembled a flying squirrel. It was incredibly rare to see one at all, let alone two in the daytime. 

And that was just the morning!  The afternoon turned out to be very hot and even the birds were hiding in the shade. We did fill in a couple of common bird species we’d not seen. We also watched a Black-and-yellow Broadbill (a bird we’ve seen several times ) struggling with a cicada a little too big for his mouth. 

After sunset and before dinner, we again attempted a night drive. While we had to turn around because of elephants, we were able to see several interesting nocturnal species (giant flying squirrel, palm civet, Malaysian blue tarantula) and a few sleeping birds. Back at the lodge, we saw some mouse-deer (not actually deer but in their own genus). All in all, we saw 11 mammals today and about 50 bird species. 

Pictured:  female Helmeted Hornbill, Lexie the Orangutan, Black-and-yellow Broadbill with dinner (2 views), Colugo, giant 

squirrel, Red Giant Flying-squirrel, Greater Mouse-deer

Danum Valley

 April 28

Today we traveled into the Danum Valley reserve, a precious remnant of the forest that originally covered Sabah and the home of orangutans, clouded leopards and many endemic bird species. We drove the 80 km to our lodge, stopping periodically for important bird sightings. We walked the last two km on the hilly dirt access road. We passed “evidence” of the family of Pygmy elephants that crossed the road about 6:30 this morning. We saw 13 new birds (including some unique Bornean subspecies). One of these, the Bornean Bristlehead, is “the holy grail for birders in Sabah” so we were really lucky. We also saw a “plain sunbird”, quite a contrast to the colorful ones we saw on Sunday. 

This afternoon we went for another bird walk, where we saw a few new species (including red leaf monkeys) and some “old friends” from last week. After dinner we headed out for a night drive, but had to turn back as the elephants were again close to the road. Don’t let the name “Pygmy” fool you— they may be the smallest of the Asian elephants but they still stand 8-10 feet high at the shoulder and weigh 5,000 - 11,000 pounds. Annoying them while riding in an expanded golf cart is not a good idea. We went for a short night walk near the lodge instead, where we saw a Bay-Owl, a pit viper (sleeping) and two kinds of frogs.

Across the previous two weeks in Malaysia we have stayed in a variety of accommodations from “basic” to “interesting”. Today’s accommodation is luxurious, and our airy cabin is an oasis after hiking in the heat and humidity. 

Pictured: Red Leaf Monkey,  Bornean Bristlehead, Bornean Black-capped Babbler, Plain Sunbird, Rhinoceros Hornbill eating berries, Sooty-capped Babbler dissecting a stick insect (he has a leg in his mouth and the rest of the insect pinned under his foot), Oriental Bay-Owl. 

Tunku Abdul Rahman park

 April 27

This morning we went out to the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, a protected area of islands and reefs off the coast of Kota Kinabalu. This was our only opportunity to see several species. Two of the species flitted past us repeatedly in a very unsatisfactory manner. We only got a quick view of these. We also saw a few other birds that weren’t on the target list for the morning, including a reef heron by the dock on the mainland. 

The third, the Philippine Megapode, at least allowed its picture to be taken. The genus of Megapodes is named for the very large feet of this quail/ pheasant type bird. We had seen another of the genus on our north Australian trip some years ago. We also saw a great monitor, some sand skinks and a group of bats sleeping on the underside of palm fronds. 

The weather was hot and humid. Not a surprise but it did likely reduce the bird activity. The rest of the day was spent traveling across Sabah to Lahan Datu on the south east coast of the province. 

Pictured: Philippine Megapode, Rufous-tailed Tailorbird, Greater Short-nosed Fruit Bats, Pacific Reef Heron, Asian Water Monitor

Kota Kinabalu

 April 26 

We arrived in Kota Kinabalu last night. Kota Kinabalu (originally Jesseltown) was initially under the Brunei empire and then a trading center established by a British consortium. The city was largely destroyed by the Japanese in WWII and taken over by the British Government afterwards, as the capital of the newly formed “North Borneo”. In 1963 Malaysia was formed and North Borneo was renamed as Sabah. The city was renamed to Kota (city) Kinabalu (for a local mountain) in 1967. 

The city of Kota Kinabalu is built on a thin strip of flat land between the South China Sea and the Crocker mountain range. Much of the downtown is built on reclaimed land created to widen that strip. On the steep foothills behind the city, and a shallow valley beyond, are remnants of the original forest and wetlands that covered this area before the arrival of concrete. 

Since today was an unscheduled day, we got to sleep in and had a late breakfast at 7:30. Afterwards we went to the Kota Kinabalu Wetlands, a protected section of tidal mangroves with boardwalks and an education center, and spent several hours birding. The tide was out, so the mangrove roots were exposed above the mudflats. We saw many of the same mangrove-loving species as yesterday in Selangor. We were treated to two new sunbird species (these seemed mostly to be hunting spiders on their webs), as well as crabs, skinks and other mud loving creatures.

We met the other two guests for this trip at 6:30 pm and headed out to dinner. We ate at a famous Chinese seafood restaurant. They had tanks to display the live spiny lobsters, prawns, shell fish, etc.  Although we did not, many customers selected their specific dinner source. Our trip leaders are the same as for the Peninsular Malaysia trip.

Pictured: Mangrove Skink, Mud Crab, Ornate Sunbird, Crimson Sunbird, mudskipper, a view of the mangroves

A morning in the mangroves

April 25

In order to get an early start on birding, we left our overnight lodging for breakfast at 5:45. On the way the van suddenly jolted to a stop… a Banded Krait, a brilliantly colored and very poisonous snake about 6 feet long was crossing the road. So of course we hopped out of the van to look at it (from a safe distance). 

We spent this morning’s birding walking through mangroves at the edge of the Selangor River. These areas are tidal, as mangroves generally grow in brackish water. In the past when we have visited mangrove areas it has been by boat; walking on dry (if overgrown) paths was a new experience. We saw nearly 30 species, most of them for the first time in the trip and many of them for the first time ever. We also watched several families of silver leaf monkeys dash through the treetops and jump across the path. 

After a quick shower it was off to lunch and then the drive back to the Kuala Lumpur airport. This concludes the Peninsular Malaysia part of the trip. We fly to Borneo for the second half of the adventure tonight. 

Pictured: Mangrove Blue Flycatcher, Brown-throated Sunbird, Ashy Tailorbird, Garden Lizard, Silver leaf monkeys 

Down from the hills

Friday April 24

This morning we traveled back down the mountains from Fraser’s Hill, walking sections of the “gap road” and driving other sections. In the early 20th century the road through the gap was so narrow that it operated one way, alternating at different times of day. There was an inn at the beginning of the road for motorists to rest if they got their timing wrong. Now there are two narrow twisting roads from the valley up to Fraser’s Hill, each one way. The creators of the turns in both roads had passenger vehicles in mind rather than 11-person vans or supply trucks, so navigating was a bit slow and careful. As we came down the hill, the vegetation and temperature changed, first to bamboo and then palms, and a decided increase in warmth. 

As we re-entered the lowlands, it was a bit horrifying to see massive stretches of forest cut down, this time for durian plantations rather than palm oil. Our local guide said “any forest that is not controlled by the government will be developed”. 

In the afternoon we drove on major highways west towards the coastline. The roadsides were again lined with palm plantations, some mature and some recently replanted after a harvest. We did a little birding near our hotel and then drove to rice paddy fields, where we saw many new kinds of birds. 

We have been very lucky with the weather on this trip; rainstorms came at night when we were indoors. That luck ran out today when a huge thunderstorm burst upon us while we were out walking, several of us without our rain gear. We got thoroughly soaked, and then sat in the vans for another hour for the storm to subside and for the lightning to move far enough away for it to be safe to emerge. 

The plan had been to go “owl-ing”, and as it happened one of the owls was roosting just across a water channel from where we sat in the vans. Once we were able to come out to see him properly, we also got to see several other birds. At dusk, a huge number of swallows ( we estimated about 250) gathered over a rice paddy feasting on insects. Then as night fell, two kinds of nightjars flew around us, and, during a short walk, we saw two additional kinds of owls.

All told it was a day that began at 6am and finished at 11pm… but we saw great things. 

Pictured: Large-tailed Nightjar, Sultan Tit, Sunday Scimitar-Babbler, Dusky Eagle-Owl (a little bedraggled from the rain), Bronzed Drongo on nest, Spotted Wood- Owl