Quito and beyond

October 16, 2021

We spent this morning exploring the grounds of our Quito lodge. The property was originally a hacienda, with most of the land cleared to support dairy cattle. Dr. George ( hence San Jorge Eco-lodges) bought the property in the 1980’s, planting gardens to attract birds and allowing the pastures to revert to nature. It is a secondary growth oasis in the hills over Quito with the urban sprawl right outside its gates. We saw 27 species there today, on trails around the lodge and that climb yet higher up the hill. Last night’s thunderstorm dusted the nearby mountain peaks with snow; the views over the city of Quito and out to the volcanoes were spectacular.

Our guide, Luis, has an affection for all birds, but is particularly fond of the elusive Antpittas, ground birds with distinctive calls who come closer and closer to you but never actually emerge from the underbrush.  We spent quite a while at Yanacocha luring the Ecuadorian Antpitta to come and see us. Its call would get louder and louder as it approached, and then go silent. Once we gave up and walked on, it resumed calling.  Today we had exactly the same experience with the Tawny Antpitta, leading us to conclude that they just like to tease Luis.

 After lunch we headed north again, taking backroads down the valley of the Tandayapa River and birding along the way.  Both halves of the day featured new species, but the hummingbirds stole the show yet again. The Black-Tailed Trainbearer (pictured below) has the longest tail of any hummingbird in the world, and the longest tail (in proportion to its body size) of any bird in the Americas. Our room at the new lodge is at the end of the building with windows on three sides at canopy level. The lodge is partway up the steep sides of the forested river valley, and feels very immersive.

Pictured: Black-tailed Trainbearer, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Golden-bellied Grosbeak (female)