Faroe Islands 2

 July 4th:  

Well, the Faroes weather found us today, particularly on an afternoon hike through slippery grass and foggy, wet views. It was one of those times where the enjoyment comes from commiserating that you did it! 

We spent the morning at the National Museum, which contained wonderful exhibits of women’s 19th century photography, fishing history, archaeological artifacts, and the carved pew-ends from St. Olaf’s Church in Kirkjubour. We visited Kirkjubour also, which had three interesting historic buildings. The current St. Olaf’s Church was built about 150 years ago but rests on a site that has had a Church on it for over 800 years. The Faroe Islands were converted (at sword point) in the late 10th century and Kirkjubour became the bishop’s seat. The second historic building is the ruined/never completed St. Magnus Cathedral, begun in 1200 and abandoned as a project in about 1250. The forced labor and taxes to build the Cathedral caused a Civil War between the southern island and the northern ones. The South won, the Cathedral was abandoned and the Bishop captured and executed. The third building is the oldest still-I ha tied wooden structure in the Faroes and perhaps beyond them. It was originally a clan chiefs house in Norway. When he fled rather than submit to the King of the newly formed country, he disassembled his house and brought it with him. It is over 1000 years old and has been in the same family for 13 generations. 

The Faroe Islands have an interesting and convoluted history, which is reflected in their language. Faroese is closest to Icelandic, and both come from Old Norse. During the Reformation (1537), the new Bishop (who came from Denmark) decided that the official Church language would be Danish. This carried over to the establishment of schools, and until 1940 it was illegal to teach (or speak ) Faroese in the schools although everyone spoke it at home.  In the late 1880s two grammarians worked on creating an official version of Faroese. This resulted in a somewhat formal written grammar similar to German, with a simpler spoken version. Our local guide admitted this makes learning Faroese particularly challenging for non-natives. 

Both yesterday and today we noticed that many houses, and even public buildings, have grass roofs. This is a 1000-year-Old tradition, originally because of a lack of trees (or wood other than driftwood). So the first houses were stone, with driftwood rafters, topped by peat in which grass naturally grows. The method is a little more sophisticated now, and most house are wooden; the turf roofs are lovely and complement the primary/ traditional house color of black. They last longer and are excellent insulation. 

Pictured: turf roofs in Torshavn, European Golden Plover, pew carving