Western Isabela

Monday February 23

We anchored in Elizabeth Bay, located at the west side of the narrow isthmus that separates Northern and Southern Isabela. Its position and westward orientation means that all the Cromwell Current (which flows west to east across the pacific at the equator) dumps its nutrients into the bay. There are mangrove lined lagoons at the eastern side of the bay, interspersed with lava rocks and cactus. It is the only place in the world that you can see penguins in mangroves— and we did!

We went on a 90 minute zodiac ride into the lagoons. There were immense pelican nurseries and a large number of flightless cormorants. We were amazed by the number of penguins— several flocks of a dozen members each, fishing in the shallow water and swimming around and under our zodiac. We also found sea lions sleeping up on mangrove branches. The mangroves also serve as a nursery for black tip sharks; we saw several young ones as well as golden rays and a few sea turtles. As we returned to deeper water we watched a “feeding frenzy” of Frigatebirds trying to snatch jumping fish from the surface of the water. A Frigatebird cannot get its feathers wet or it will be too heavy to take off again. Then in the midst of the excitement came a full grown black tip shark entered the scene.

The Galapagos are famous for the adaptations of the local species, prompted by the harsh conditions and isolation of the islands. One aspect of those adaptations is for creatures to either become smaller or larger than the original colonizing species. The penguins are an example of the first and the tortoises of the second. 

During lunch we transitioned two hours south to Punta Moreno, located between the Sierra Negra and Cerro Azul volcanos. We had a wonderful snorkeling outing full of sea lions, turtles, diamond stingrays, penguins and beautiful fish. The Galapagos subspecies of Pacific Green Sea Turtles are so dark they are sometimes called Black. After a quick change of clothes we went for a zodiac ride in a nearby mangrove cove that was home to baby black tip sharks, spotted eagle rays and many golden cowrays. Our last stop in the zodiacs was a lava-rock cove which is home to some of the largest marine iguanas as well as penguins. To see penguins, marine iguanas, sea lions and cormorants all crowded together on a single shelf was amazing. 

Pictured: Green (or Black) Sea Turtle,

Hawksbill Turtle, penguins with marine iguanas, golden cowrays, black tip sharks, Galapagos penguins in the mangroves.