Ilhas Desertas

 We spent the morning at sea, searching the horizon for whale “blows” and seabirds. Seabirds yes (some in very large flocks), whales no, but it was lovely morning. In the afternoon we had the rare opportunity to go ashore at Ilhas Desertas (the deserted islands), a set of three rocky islets that are part of the Madeira Archipelago. 

 The islands are one of the few remaining refuges for the Atlantic Monk Seal. These monk seals are some of the largest seals in the world (up to 10 feet long and weighing up to 800 lbs). They were hunted nearly to extinction for their blubber, their pelts, and to protect fishing grounds from their predation. By 1988 there were only 8 left and the islands became a protected area. There are now 31, assuming the latest pups survive. There is a research station (more substantial than the one on the St Peter Rocks) where researchers work in 2 week shifts on behalf of the seals and a locally endemic seabird. While we were not able to see any of the seals today, we did see some endemic birds, and the steep rocky ridges of the island were beautiful. While it was “yet another volcanic island” this one is so old and weathered that the appearance is quite different… and so rugged that it is no surprise that human habitation never took hold. We also had great fun just being out in the zodiacs zipping around on the ocean on a sunny day. 

After the islands we transitioned to Funchal, the capital of Madeira. It took the ship about two hours, during which we were rewarded with three sperm whale sightings, including a mother and calf quite close to the ship. We saw both of them come up for air and then watched the mother dive while the calf followed with its own dive.

In the late afternoon a local group (Grupo de Folclore e Etnografico da Boa Nova) came aboard and performed traditional songs and dances. Some of the motions in the dances were unfamiliar, and were explained as symbolizing the picking and stomping of grapes. They also had some unusual instruments and costumes… all very enjoyable. 

Pictures: Berthelot’s (endemic) Pipit, Ilhas Desertas sea cliffs, Sperm whales, dancers