Today we explored Santiago, the largest of the leeward islands set within the 10 islands of the Cape Verde Archipelago. As we had hoped, as we approached land we saw more wildlife. We saw several new sea birds and 2 sperm whales (probably a mother and calf). Sperm whales never appear much above the surface but their angular “blows” are diagnostic.
On land, we covered much of Santiago, the largest of the Leeward islands in this archipelago. It was discovered in 1690 and settled in 1692. We visited the original capital at Cidade Velhe (old town) including a fort built to fend off pirates in the 16th century including Francis Drake), the botanic gardens along the central spine of mountains, and a daily market in Assomado. We had a seaside lunch at Tarrafal. These stops allowed us to see many of the endemic species of this country. The day was hot and murky thanks to sand blown from the Sahara. In general, Santiago is hilly and rocky and dry; any little streambed prompts an explosion of green in a brown landscape.
Charles Darwin and Christopher Columbus both visited these islands at the beginning of their voyages. In the case of Columbus he said the islands were misnamed as there was nothing green about them (he was here in the dry season, which to be fair is 9 months of the year). Darwin mentioned several species, particular the kingfisher (the grey-headed one, a brilliantly colored bird that we have previously seen in Africa, and of which we saw 14 today). There is a statue of Darwin in Praia.
After lunch we visited the prison/concentration camp established in Tarrafal by the Portuguese dictator Salazar in 1935. Initially built for his political opponents, it was repurposed after World War II to incarcerate anti-colonial protestors from the various Portuguese colonies (Angola, Guinea-Bissau, Cape Verde and Mozambique). As with all such camps the conditions were grim and inhumane. It highlights an aspect of history that is very fresh in these islands (they did not achieve independence until 1974) but that didn’t make it into our US education. It was a profoundly thought-provoking visit. We completed our day with a well around the 18th century (and current) capital of Praia.
Pictures: Cape Verde Sparrow, Gray-headed Kingfisher, Sperm Whale, Assomado market
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